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Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 4. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.4. /Version english and polish/

środa, 16 lipca 2008 13:08
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Himalayan Triptych Reactivated. Pakistan wrap-up: G1/G2 “an incredible achievement for Poland”…

July 09, 2008
(K2Climb.net) After summiting GII and holding for one day at 7,400 meters hoping to traverse to GIII, bad weather conditions finally forced Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski back to BC yesterday. “Whether they will continue their traverse or not, we don’t know yet,” Peter’s wife Maria said : “All depends on conditions and how much time they have left.”

G1/G2 “an incredible achievement for Poland”

July 10, 2008
Dos Pedros: 2nd only traverse of two 8000ers

Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor have descended to BC and it’s unclear if they’ll still shoot for GIII. If they did, it would be “a never-done-before masterpiece,” Rodrigo points out but ads that the two already have done only the second ever traverse of two 8000ers, after Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander.

“The main difference between the two parties is that the Italians started on G2 and it took them 4 days from G2 top to the summit of G1 (and 7 days of total climbing). The Poles started on G1 and it took them 11 days from G1 top to the summit of G2 (and 20 days climbing).”

“It is an incredible achievement for Poland, to revisit a very difficult conquest that remained unrepeated for 24 years,” Rodrigo states.

July 11, 2008
more on the G1/G2 traverse

Running out of time, Maria Hamorova report the “dos Pedros” are now packing up in BC and leaving for home.

What you get by setting up big goals is as important as what you become by achieving them. The Himalayan Trilogy dream team (Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor) set up a grand plan to span over the next two years: the north-west face of Annapurna; a long G1/G2/G3 traverse; all Broad Peaks; a new route on the east face of Everest; the north face of Manaslu and…the north-west ridge of Rakaposhi.

The current status: Ama Dablam; check. Annapurna; close but no cigar. G1-2-3; G1&G2 bagged in a long, very hard Gasherbrum traverse (not the same as a double header) by Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor - only the second ever of two 8000ers, after Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander; a very difficult conquest that remained unrepeated for 24 years.

The Italians started on G2 and it took them 4 days from G2 top to the summit of G1 (and 7 days of total climbing). The Polish/Slovak combo started on G1 and it took them 11 days from G1 top to the summit of G2 (and 20 days climbing), Rodrigo Granzotto Peron reported yesterday.

“Didn’t Jean-Christophe Lafaille do a traverse on GI - GII in 1996?” a reader asked today. Rodrigo replied, “Jean-Christophe Lafaille did a double-header, and a good one (solo, just 4 days between the two summits, and opening a partially new route on GI). There are 35 cases of climbers who did the same. Double-headers on GI and GII are pretty common, especially nowadays.”

“But to do a ‘traverse’ the climber must face ‘the entire ridge’ between the two peaks traversed. J-C summited GI then came back to the BC of GI and then used another route to summit GII.”

“He did not traverse the ridge between GI and GII. The only two parties that did this traverse are Kammerlander+Messner and now Hamor+Morawski. I advise that even Hamor+Morawski will be investigated when the expedition is over, to see if they really did a traverse or a double-header. Until now everything conspires favorable to a traverse,” Rodrigo ends.

Finally Maros Liptak, a friend of Peter Hamor, points out correctly from Bratislava today that only Piotr Morawski is from Poland; Peter Hamor is from Slovakia so the traverse is in fact “..a great achievement for Poland AND Slovakia!”

Don’t forget to also check out ExWeb’s interview with Piotr Pustelnik.

* previous story :

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 3. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 2. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.2. /Version english and polish/- Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski reached the summit of Gasherbrum I

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 1. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated - part 2# and 3#: Gasherbrum and Broad Peak traverses. Tryptyk Renaktywacja 2008 cz. II i III. /Version english and polish/


Tryptyk Reaktywacja. Trawers Gasherbrumów - Relacje z wyprawy.

Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: Koniec wyprawy?
09 lipca 2008

Po zdobyciu Gasherbruma II, nastąpiło załamanie pogody, które uniemożliwiło Piotrowi i Peterowi, zdobycie GIII. Panowie odpoczywają obecnie w bazie i ze względu na wyczerpanie, związane z długim i trudnym, acz owocnym sezonem, podjęli decyzję o powrocie do domu.

Wyprawa należy jednak do bardzo udanych, udało się:

- powtórzyć w alpejskim stylu drogę hiszpańską i zdobyć Gaserbrum I (8068 m)

- zdobyć Gasherum II (8035 m) - drogą normalną, w stylu alpejskim

Druga część wyprawy, której celem był trawers Broad Peaków, niestety musiała zostać odwołana. Więcej szczegółów w relacji już niebawem.

GRATULUJEMY jeszcze raz!!!!

** Źródła: - www.peterhamor.sk - http://www.mounteverest.net/ - http://www.piotrmorawski.com/

*** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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