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Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 5. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.5. /Version english and polish/

niedziela, 20 lipca 2008 9:24
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I Recommend …

ExWeb Broad Peak special: Interview with Piotr Pustelnik, “be very careful and stick together!


…below a part of this interview :

ExWeb: How do you feel about the latest Annapurna climb, what is the situation right now for your mates on the Gasherbrums, and when will you join them?

Piotr Pustelnik: How do I feel about Annapurna? Pretty dreadful. It was the most difficult Himalayan climb in my life and yet it wasn’t good enough to reach the summit. I ask myself: “What more can I do?” This profound feeling of frustration just won’t go away… Sure, I will try again in the future but I’m not thinking about it at the moment.

“Dos Pedros” have just bagged G2 but they’re tired after all the climbs this season so the rest of the “Himalayan Trilogy” has a question mark hovering over it. Thus currently I’m in limbo and we will discuss our options when they finish the Gasherbrums traverse.

Editor’s note: In the latest update July 11, 2008 Maria Hamorova reports that the Peters have run out of time and are coming home. They will pack and leave Base Camp today.

The Himalayan Trilogy dream team (Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor) set up a grand plan to span over the next two years: the north-west face of Annapurna; a long G1/G2/G3 traverse; all Broad Peaks; a new route on the east face of Everest; the north face of Manaslu and…the north-west ridge of Rakaposhi.

The “Tres Pedros” organized the plot in the following sections:

2008:
Code name: Himalayan Trilogy - Reactivation

A. Ama Dablam (acclimatization)
1. Annapurna north-west face (Czech route)
2. G1-2-3: A long traverse from G1 to G2 and G3 starting via the original (first ascent) American line to G1, then to Gasherbrum La and on the ridge thru Gasherbrum East to G2 and G3.
3. Broad Peak - the entire summit ridge

2009:
Code name: Himalayan Trilogy - Revolution

A. Kantega or Baruntse (acclimatization)
1. East face of Everest - new route
2. North face of Manaslu - new route by Peter Hamor & Piotr Morawski - “not me, I’m too old :)” says Peter.
3. North-west ridge of Rakaposhi

The current status: Ama Dablam; check. Annapurna; close but no cigar. G1-2-3; G1&G2 bagged in a long, very hard Gasherbrum traverse (not the same as a double header) by Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor - only the second ever of two 8000ers, after Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander; a very difficult conquest that remained unrepeated for 24 years.

The Italians started on G2 and it took them 4 days from G2 top to the summit of G1 (and 7 days of total climbing). The Polish/Slovak combo started on G1 and it took them 11 days from G1 top to the summit of G2 (and 20 days climbing)

** Read these stories - and more! - at ExplorersWeb.com


Himalayan Triptych Reactivated. Gasherbrum traverse

- expedition closed


July 11, 2008

Maria Hamorova reports that the Peters have run out of time and are coming home.

They will pack and leave Base Camp today.

* previous posts :

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 4. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 3. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 2. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.2. /Version english and polish/- Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski reached the summit of Gasherbrum I

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated: Gasherbrum traverse part 1. Tryptyk reaktywacja : Gasherbrum travers cz.1. /Version english and polish/

Himalayan Triptych Reactivated - part 2# and 3#: Gasherbrum and Broad Peak traverses. Tryptyk Renaktywacja 2008 cz. II i III. /Version english and polish/


Tryptyk Reaktywacja. Trawers Gasherbrumów - Relacje z wyprawy.


Trawers Gasherbrumów i Broad Peaku: Koniec wyprawy.
11 lipca 2008, Maria Hamorova :

Ostatnie wiadomości to, Peter Hamor & Piotr Morawski szykują się do powrotu do domu.

W dniu dzisiejszym pakują się i opuszczają Base Camp.


* Źródła: - www.peterhamor.sk - http://www.mounteverest.net/ - http://www.piotrmorawski.com/


 

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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